贝宁海滩上波浪传播演变特性研究
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作者单位:

(1.中国港湾工程有限责任公司,北京100027;2.河海大学海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室, 江苏 南京210098;3.河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院,江苏 南京210098 )

作者简介:

王广生(1980—),男,高级工程师,主要从事波浪-海床-结构物相互作用研究。E-mail:gswang@chec.bj.cn

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中图分类号:

TV139.2; P731.22

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Study on wave propagation and evolution characteristics over a beach in Benin
Author:
Affiliation:

(1.China Harbor Engineering Company Limited, Beijing 100027, China;2.Key Laboratory of Ministry of Education for Coastal Disaster and Protection, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China;3.College of Harbor, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China)

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    摘要:

    为分析贝宁海滩上波浪传播演变特性,基于开源波浪数值计算软件COBRAS建立了贝宁典型海滩剖面数值模型,模型中采用 k -epsilon紊流模型求解雷诺应力,采用流体体积法捕捉自由液面,并采用斜坡上波浪破碎试验结果对数值模型进行了验证。基于该模型对常浪条件和极端波浪条件下海滩上波浪传播规律的模拟结果表明:常浪条件下波浪主要在沙坝附近发生破碎,极端波浪条件下波浪在沙坝外侧200 m处开始发生破碎;破碎区域内水质点速度较大,常浪条件下沙坝周围的流速可达7.5 m/s,极端波浪条件下破波带内水质点速度可达12.4 m/s,且波浪回流与入射波浪在沙坝周围相互作用会形成较强的涡旋;随着波浪非线性的增强,波浪爬高也逐渐增大,在极端波浪条件下,沙丘上会发生越浪。

    Abstract:

    Based on a open-source numerical software of wave, COBRAS, a two-dimensional numerical model is developed to study the wave propagation and evolution characteristics over a beach in Benin, in which the free surface is captured by the Volume-of-Fluid method and the Reynold stress is obtained by solving the k-epsilon equations. The numerical model is validated with the experimental data for the free surface of a solitary wave during the shoaling and breaking over a slope. The proposed model is then used to study the shoaling and breaking processes under ordinary and extreme wave conditions. The results show that the waves break near the sandbar under the ordinary wave condition. However, under the extreme wave condition, they start to break 200 m away from the sandbar, and during the interaction of the rundown water and the incident wave, vortexes shall be formed over the sandbar. In the breaking zone, the water velocity is relatively large, which can be 7.5 m/s under the ordinary wave condition and even reach 12.4 m/s under the extreme wave condition. With the increase of the nonlinearity of the incident wave, the runup height increases, and overtopping occurs under the extreme wave condition.

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王广生,童林龙,罗梦岩,等.贝宁海滩上波浪传播演变特性研究[J].河海大学学报(自然科学版),2023,51(6):123-129.(WANG Guangsheng, TONG Linlong, LUO Mengyan, et al. Study on wave propagation and evolution characteristics over a beach in Benin[J]. Journal of Hohai University (Natural Sciences),2023,51(6):123-129.(in Chinese))

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  • 收稿日期:2022-12-04
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  • 在线发布日期: 2023-12-17
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