双峰谱波浪在西非典型海滩上的传播变形与演化特性
作者:
作者单位:

(1.河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院,江苏 南京210098;2.河海大学海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室,江苏 南京210098;3.中国港湾工程有限责任公司,北京100027 )

作者简介:

张凯(1999—),男,博士研究生,主要从事海岸波浪研究。E-mail: zhangkai1999@hhu.edu.cn

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中图分类号:

P731.22;TV139.2

基金项目:

国家重点研发计划“政府间国际科技创新合作”重点专项项目(2023YFE0126300)


Transformation, deformation, and evolution characteristics of bimodal spectral waves on typical beach of West Africa
Author:
Affiliation:

(1.College of Harbour, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China;2.Key Laboratory of Ministry of Education for Coastal Disaster and Protection, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China;3.China Harbour Engineering Company Limited, Beijing 100027, China )

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    摘要:

    基于实测波浪数据得到了西非典型的双峰谱,通过物理模型试验研究了在不同风浪、涌浪能量占比的条件下,不规则波浪在典型海滩上的传播变形与波谱演化特性。结果表明:双峰谱波浪在有效波高变化、谱峰能量变化和非线性作用等方面与单峰谱波浪存在显著差异;双峰谱波浪的有效波高增大主要由低频涌浪部分的波浪浅化主导,涌浪能量占比增大会导致波浪破碎前的最大波高增大;相比于单峰谱涌浪,双峰谱波浪的涌浪谱峰在海滩上传播中的能量增长更快,波浪破碎后的涌浪谱峰能量衰减更慢;涌浪和风浪主峰之间的非线性作用产生了由高频风浪部分至低频涌浪部分的能量转移,使得双峰谱中的涌浪主峰能量相对增大。

    Abstract:

    A typical bimodal spectrum in West Africa was obtained based on the measured wave data, and the transformation, deformation, and spectral evolution characteristics of irregular waves on typical beaches under the conditions of different energy proportions of wind waves and swells were studied through physical model experiments. The results demonstrate significant differences between bimodal spectral waves and unimodal spectral waves in terms of significant wave height variation, spectral peak energy evolution, and nonlinear interaction. The increase in the significant wave height for bimodal spectral waves is primarily governed by the shoaling process of low-frequency swell components, with higher swell proportion leading to larger maximum wave height before wave breaking. Compared to unimodal spectral swell, the swell spectral peak of bimodal spectral waves exhibits faster energy growth during transformation and slower energy dissipation after wave breaking. Nonlinear interaction between swell and wind wave spectral peaks induces energy transfer from high-frequency wind wave components to low-frequency swell components, resulting in relative energy growth of the swell spectral peak in bimodal wave spectrum.

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引用本文

张凯,王广生,时健,等.双峰谱波浪在西非典型海滩上的传播变形与演化特性[J].河海大学学报(自然科学版),2025,53(3):109-117.(ZHANG Kai, WANG Guangsheng, SHI Jian, et al. Transformation, deformation, and evolution characteristics of bimodal spectral waves on typical beach of West Africa[J]. Journal of Hohai University (Natural Sciences),2025,53(3):109-117.(in Chinese))

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  • 收稿日期:2024-07-05
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  • 在线发布日期: 2025-05-26
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